Provence

After a late night of "seder-ing," packing, and working, we woke our still exhausted children up early to catch a TGV train to the south of France. Three hours later, we had traveled the entire length of France and arrived in Marseille. We did little in Marseille but pick up our rental car, and headed for Aix-en-Provence. It might be just our good luck that it was an absolutely perfect spring day with the most incredible blue sky ever imaginable, but this is a beautiful place. It is clear why painters like Cezanne were inspired to paint the landscape. We checked into a nice B & B (Villa Valbelle) and headed into Aix. We ate lunch outside on the Cours Mirabeau. Although the plane trees had not yet gotten their leaves, the purple flowering trees and yellow painted walls made a beautiful foreground for the blue sky that I just can’t help mentioning again. Aix has been called the city of 100 fountains, and Ella counted 21 of them as we walked around the streets of Aix sightseeing and souvenir shopping. We followed the well-marked Cezanne route – checking out his former homes, schools, studios, etc. We also took a work-related detour to check out the synagogue which was recently expanded.

We came back to the B & B for a home made Provencal style dinner (our room has a kitchenette and a dining area) – complete with an outstanding (and for those who are worried we are becoming wine snobs, 2 euro) bottle of Cote de Rhone wine. The kids snuggled in bed with us and watched Chicken Run (a DVD borrowed from the inn keepers' son) until they fell asleep. Even though it is tough to leave work in Paris (especially for Abe with his projects at critical points), it is so wonderful to be out of the city and have time to spend together.

Aix – Day 2
We woke up to the same beautiful sky as the day before and enjoyed breakfast, laid out along with the International Herald Tribune, in the kitchen garden. We lingered over coffee, while the kids picked flowers in the yard. Another day of sight seeing in Aix – the former grain market, the former Jewish area, the recently re-opened Granet museum (soon to host a huge Cezanne exhibit which is currently in Washington D.C.’s National Gallery), lunch outside in the plaza of the Hotel de Ville (where Ella tasted and loved crème brulée; and where Jonah received a drink stirrer which quickly became his trusty magic wand and accompanied us the rest of our trip), and a drive to the Sainte Victoire mountain (often painted by Cezanne; now showcased in a multimedia presentation in a visitors’ center at its base). A highlight was a stop at Cezanne’s studio. This surprisingly modern 2 story building was used by the painter during the last few years of his life, and has been preserved in its original state – complete with the bowls and jugs he used to create his still lifes (fortunately, the fruit has been replaced). The atelier was a gorgeous space in which to paint, I’m certain. It has high ceilings and huge windows with beautiful views. Seeing the studio, the visitor gets a glimpse of the world through Cezanne's eyes, making his paintings that much more intruiging and beautiful.

During the day, Ella counted at least a dozen more fountains (including some lesser known ones in the modern Palais de Justice courtyard).

After two days here, we are wondering if the next sabbatical should be in Aix-en-Provence.